U.S. Guitar Kits Cutaway Manuel d'utilisateur Page 36

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Neck “relief,” the upward curvature of the neck in the direc-
tion of the string’s pull, is adjusted with the truss rod. You
should set the neck relief before final adjustment of the
nut and saddle heights. Although the truss rod will affect
string height, it shouldn’t be used to do so. It’s intended to
control the relief, which can affect “buzzing” in the lower
frets. Depending on your playing style and the accuracy of
the fret heights, the neck should have anywhere from zero
(straight) to 0.012" of relief. A straight neck tends to play bet-
ter, but few guitars end up with no relief at all, and several
thousandths or more is perfectly normal.
Start with the nut and saddle roughed out to height, and
the guitar tuned to pitch. With a straightedge resting on
the frets, along the centerline of the neck, use feeler gauges
between the seventh fret and the straightedge to determine
the amount of relief. The heavier you strum, the more relief
you’ll need. Bluegrass players may need more relief, finger-
pickers less, and the majority of players will be somewhere
in between.
Turn the truss rod nut
counterclockwise to bring
the neck up, adding relief.
Turn the nut clockwise
to pull the neck back,
reducing relief.
Go slowly and carefully — a little
adjustment goes a long way.
Understanding neck relief
KIT TIP: Feeler gauges
Unwound guitar strings make excellent feeler
gauges for measuring relief. Turning the truss rod
nut clockwise straightens the neck and reduces
the relief.
Turning it counterclockwise bows the neck upward, adding
relief. Always adjust the truss rod with care a little bit
goes a long way.
The first stage of setup will produce a medium-high action
(this may be suitable for bluegrass players, but can be low-
ered for other playing styles). The heights of the nut and
the saddle should be adjusted together; changes in one will
affect the other. Adjust the truss rod to make the fretboard
playing surface as straight as possible. If your neck has un-
even fret heights, you must level them in order to “read” the
frets accurately (see “Leveling the frets”).
Install the two outside E-strings to establish the string clear-
ance over the first fret and the saddle height above the top
of the bridge. The latter two measurements determine the
action height, judged by measuring string clearance at the
12th fret.
Install a guitar capo behind the first fret and tighten it just
enough to pull the strings down for clearance between the
bottom of the strings and the top of the first fret. Set this
clearance at about .020" below the treble E-string, and .030"
below the bass E-string. Use .020" and .030" guitar strings to
measure the clearance as the capo is tightened (pictured).
Now measure the overall string action at the 12th fret. A
comfortable medium action is about 3/32" to 7/64" under
the bass E-string, and 1/16" to 5/64" under the treble E-string.
Adjusting string action: nut slots and saddle height
Your bridge saddle may be too tall. Decide how much each
string must be lowered at the 12th fret. Twice that amount
must be removed from the saddle height (this is a proven
formula for lowering or raising the strings accurately).
The top of the saddle is already shaped, so we recommend
you remove material from the bottom of the saddle. Remove
the saddle and measure up from the bottom the required
amount to be removed. Use the same sanding method as
recommended in “Fitting the bridge saddle.sanding evenly.
Work slowly and test often. You can remove a little more, but
once you've gone to far, it's impossible to add it back on!
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