U.S. Guitar Kits Cutaway Manuel d'utilisateur Page 18

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stewmac.com
ing the tape.
Its best to wait at least two days before scraping the bind-
ings flush to the wood, because the plastic will shrink
slightly as the glue solvent evaporates. Use a scraper blade
to smooth the bindings flush to the guitar’s sides, back and
top. Scrape in the direction of the wood grain, and avoid
digging into the wood. Practice on scrap if possible.
Installing the end trim
Install the waist clamp, and screw it to the topside of the
workbench, with the tailblock end of the guitar facing the
ceiling, to hold the body firmly while you work. Center
the tapered plastic end trim at the end seam of the guitar,
about midway from top to bottom, wide end toward the
soundboard (see the blueprint, upper left). Hold the end
trim firmly and use a sharp knife to score the outline of its
edges onto the guitar body. Gradually deepen the scored
line in several passes with the knife or a thin razor saw, and
chisel the area between the lines to the thickness of the end
trim. Check the fit of the end trim in the channel, and glue
it in place with Weld-On cement. Clamping should not be
necessary, but use waxed paper to protect your hands. After
24 hours drying time, trim the ends to match the routed
binding ledges. Level the end trim flush with the guitar sides,
using a sharp scraper blade tool.
Installing the bindings
We prefer our high-tack binding tape to hold the bindings,
but you can also use cloth tape or long rubber bands. Before
gluing, prepare by tearing many pieces of tape in 2" lengths.
For the rosewood kit with herringbone trim, apply Weld-On
glue to a section of the routed soundboard channels, from
about six inches to one-quarter of the distance around the
guitar from the tailblock seam. Set the herringbone trim in
place; the pattern should point toward the neck block. Ap-
ply a little more glue on its edge, and set the plastic binding
strip against it in the outer channel. You can glue both strips
simultaneously. Secure them tightly with tape and press
the herringbone trim down firmly. Repeat the procedure to
complete one side of the soundboard, and allow 6-8 hours
drying time before binding the other side.
Remove the tape by warming it with a heat gun (or a hair
dryer) held at least 6-8 inches away. Pull the tape off at a
45° angle (pictured). When warmed, the tape will lift easily
without pulling out wood fibers.
Glue and tape the back bindings in place. The binding joints
at the neck block and tailblock must be trimmed for a close
fit. The solvent-based glue, such as Weld-on, will melt the
joints together. Allow 6-8 hours drying time before remov-
Cut off 2-1/4" from the rectangular blank, to be used for
the heel cap material. On the remaining 6" piece, draw a
center line from end to end. On one end measure out from
center 3/8" each way and make a mark. On the opposite end
measure out 3/16" from the center line each way and make a
mark. Connect the marks from end to end with your pencil,
now you have your shape.
Attach the piece to a at surface using double sided tape. Lay
a straight edge along the outer angled lines and cut along
the straight edge with a razor knife. Make several cuts until
you are completely through the material.
Clean up the cut edges with a file. Take care to file along the
whole length of the piece, so you don’t lose the straightness
of the edges.
Shaping the end trim and heel cap
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