U.S. Guitar Kits Cutaway Manuel d'utilisateur Page 23

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stewmac.com
Gluing cauls can be made to match the radius and length of
the fretboard, and notched to rest over the frets. However, a
simple method that works well for gluing and aligning the
fretboard is to wrap it onto the neck with a large rubber
band. You may need two rubber bands, but one worked
for us.
With the truss rod installed, clamp the peghead into a
swivel- jawed repair vise or to your benchtop, with the neck
overhanging. Cut a broomstick or a scrap of wood as a prop,
and wedge it under the neck heel with just enough force to
push the neck into a slight upbow, or “relief,” of about .012"
or .015", as noted using a straightedge. This will be approxi-
mately the same amount as the slight backbow the fretboard
probably took on during fretting. The two curves, upbow
and backbow, will cancel each other as the fretboard is glued
on, resulting in a straight neck and an unadjusted truss rod.
Lightly spread Titebond glue evenly on the neck surface.
Leave the edges of the truss rod channel almost dry, the glue
squeeze-out will spread right up to the edge of the channel.
Be careful not to get glue in the channel. Set the fretboard on
the glue surface, and align the nut end with the nut line on
the neck. Tie the rubber band at the nut end, and start wrap-
ping (pictured). The fretboard will align itself as you wrap,
and can be easily moved if one edge is off-center. Stretch
the rubber band tightly as you wrap toward the neck heel,
go around the neck joint and the heel, and then wrap back
to the nut. Even with a light glue application, you’ll probably
get a lot of glue squeeze-out. Wipe off excess glue and let
the neck dry overnight.
Installing the fretboard
Let it run through the slot and out the other side. Loose frets
can be clamped using a 16"-radius sanding block as a caul
before running the super glue into the slot. Use wax paper
between the caul and the fretboard.
With flush-ground fret cutters, nip the fret ends close to
the edge of the fretboard (don’t dig into the wood). Use a
smooth mill file, or sandpaper on the carpenter’s level, to
bring the fret ends flush. Then, holding the fretboard flat
against your work surface, use the mill file to bevel the fret
ends at about 60°. Work slowly — you can always add more
bevel, but you can’t put the metal back. Lightly round over
the sharp upper edges of the fretboard so they’ll feel com-
fortable to your hand. Our Fret Beveling File makes this job
quick and uniform.
Stewart-MacDonald’s tool recommendation
Essential Fretting Tool Kit Item #3125
Our fretting experts compiled this kit of tools you’ll need for the fundamentals of fret
work: installation, removal and dressing. Our photo-illustrated book, Fretwork Step By
Step, is the most complete work ever published on the subject, and it is included FREE
to get you started!
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