U.S. Guitar Kits Cutaway Manuel d'utilisateur télécharger pdf (Page 16)

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Use a small straightedge to examine where the top and back

meet the sides. Look for dips, rises or other imperfections.

Scrape and sand the wood ﬂat and smooth for at least 1" on

the sides and 2" or 3" on the top and back. This will provide

accurate surfaces for your router base and ball-bearing

cutter. Be particularly careful in sanding and smoothing

this area because imperfections will result in an uneven

binding channel.

Regardless of the tool you use to rout the body for binding,

a straight-cut router bit must be used to produce a right-

angle ledge. You can use a Dremel router with our adjustable

binding router attachment and 5/16" bit, if you approach

the ﬁnal size slowly. We used a more powerful laminate

router of manageable size and a relatively small-diameter

baseplate. The baseplate didn’t extend far enough out on

the arched guitar back to tip it out of proper alignment with

the sides. We also used our ball-bearing Binding Router Bit

and bearings.

To keep wood dust and chips out of the shop in our video,

we moved outside and rested the guitar body on the open

top of a rectangular plastic garbage can. Hold the body

securely with your elbows as you rout. For more stability,

secure the guitar body to your plywood work surface by

screwing several close-ﬁtting wood blocks onto the board

around the body. Thin strips of veneer or heavy cardboard

can be lightly wedged between the blocks and the body

to hold it fast. You can also use the waist clamp fastened to

your workbench for most of the routing, and remove it to

rout the waist of the body.

Wood tear-out is always possible when routing, but espe-

cially with long-grain, quartersawn tonewoods. Therefore,

start with four “climb cuts,” so-called because the router

is “climbing,” or being pulled along as the bit grabs the

wood.

With a saw, chisel and ﬁle, remove the section of soundboard

that covers the top of the neck joint cavity, and smooth the

edges. Routing for the body bindings is easier if the excess

top and back overhang is removed ﬁrst. You’ll be able to see

Routing and binding

Trimming the top and back overhang

Routing for the plastic body bindings

Begin at the centers of the top and lower bouts on both

the treble and bass sides (illustrated), with the router base

moving in the direction of the rotating cutter (clockwise).

Rout up to the areas indicated by the arrows. When all four

climb cuts have been made, you can move the router in the

opposite direction (counterclockwise) cutting into the wood

rather than climbing (illustrated). Make one continuous

pass around the guitar. When you reach the areas that were

already climb cut, the router will pass without tear-out.

Use a dial caliper to set your router cutting dimensions, and

make a few test cuts on scrap wood until you get the proper

height. Test-ﬁt your bindings on these practice cuts. If you

can, test on scrap that is curved similar to the shapes you

will be routing on the guitar.

the router bit better, and there’s less chance of wood tearout.

You can trim off the overhang with a sharp knife and a ﬁle,

or get in close with those hand tools and ﬂush-cut with a

ball-bearing router bit.

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U.S. Guitar Kits Cutaway Manuel d'utilisateur Page 16

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